After seeing Matthew Bourne’s production of Sleeping Beauty at Sadler Wells in January, the fairy costumes alone were one of the elements that inspired me to do this collection. The skirts a soft light weight fabric that started in color then descended into darker shades at the hem were gorgeous, making them gritty yet ethereal.
The Lilac Fairy in most interpretations of Sleeping Beauty is seen as this wise guiding figure for the two protagonists. I disagree-she’s not really a ‘Good’ Fairy, unless by the word ‘Good’ you mean ‘Ok’ or ‘Fine’. In averting Carabosse’s curse, all she really does it complicate things, making everyone in the castle comatose for a century!
The overall concept for this character is Narcolepsy. In staying true to the character’s title I knew purples would be a major color choice, but like the New Adventure costumes I loved the fusing of the brighter color on the corsets transforming into black tones by the edge of the skirt hem, as if suggesting the gradual descent into sleep. This was where I thought of a light colored bodice that would shift into darker shades through the billowing layers of a massive gown. Also for this design I reincarnated my ‘The Dog Ate My Prom Dress’ technique I made up a few years ago, taking layers of gathered fabric and shredding it’s edge. The effect looks as if the dress’s been dragged through the hedge.
The light weight and volume of the gown came out beautifully, particularly the darker violent between the lilac and black layers making a smooth transition in the color palette. However the weight of the skirt was so heavy, I had therefor reconsider the sleeveless bodice idea. The ruffled halter top Mila Kunis wore for the cover of Sunday Times Style magazine inspired me to compromise the shredded gathered ruffles in the front to hide the halter additions, the ruffles merging at the waist line with the rest of the skirt! The effect is much more editorial than my original design.
The mask was inspired also from the eye make up of the fairies from the Matthew Bourne production, the black strip making a mask like shape around the eyes. The idea intrigued me as it seemed to suggest sleep, so I redid it into a physical mask with black netting, in the style of the headwear worn at ascot covering the face.
